Leaving behind the seasonless monotony of the lowlands, we arrive in Kandy, the second largest city in Sri Lanka and gateway to the country's central highlands. Lacking entirely in the impersonal modernity of Colombo, Kandy is a city that embraces its past. Buildings are a mix of native Sinhalese and colonial British, and their low profile, taken together with the dominating lake and the vast amounts of green space, lend Kandy a feeling of openness. The royal palace stands in the city's centre, proudly overlooking the lake, and it is here that we witness a momentous occasion in Sri Lankan politics: a new president has been elected and his inaugural speech coincides with our time in Kandy.

After nearly a decade of cronyism and corruption, the outgoing president lost a snap election and, in a failed attempt to retain power, tries a military coup which fails (all while we were in the country!). A descent into instability averted, there is a real sense of relief, hope and quiet reverence at the inaugural speech. For VY and I, it is an opportunity to witness a historic event and mix with the natives.

Crowds wait on the palace grounds for an appearance by the president

In comparison to the presidential address, our remaining time in Kandy is largely uneventful. We visit the shrine of the Holy Tooth Relic (which Marco Polo once set out to steal for Kublai Khan); wander the botanical gardens; converse over cups of ceylonese tea; and, in an earnest but failed attempt to sample the local fare, dine at a restaurant with sub-standard hygiene and even worse food. Dad is so offended that he refuses to eat, and instead sulks for the remainder of the meal, speaking only to comment on how bad everything is. To rectify things, he buys a three piece value meal from KFC and devours it noisily in the car, refusing to share with the rest of us.

Dad trying to choke it down before giving up and going for the KFC

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When we leave Kandy for the highlands of Nuwara-Eliya, it is by locamotive -on the back of an iron behemoth painted an imposing black. If I could make but one recommendation to someone traveling Sri Lanka it would be this: ride the train, and if you have the time, make sure the ride is through the highlands. But no matter where in the country you board, the journey will surely prove a highlight. During my month long stay I ride the train four times, each as exciting as the first.

While a train ride can certainly be interpreted as merely a method of getting from A to B, it is in the whimsical definition of the word ride that one should consider when traveling by rail in Sri Lanka. Like a rollar-coaster at an amusement park, one boards this train purely for the enjoyment of the experience; for the thrill and exhilaration it provides; for the rush to the senses and the occasional butterflies in the belly. On this ride, the destination is but a distant consideration; necessary to the act of train travel but inconsequential in its location. One's own amusement is the "why", the "where" is of no importance. If the entire length of the track ran in one giant circle I would still whole heartedly recommend taking it.

VY enjoying the ride

The class of travel chosen does not matter because the moment the train pulls out of the station, most of the time will be spent in the vestibule, testing nerves and tempting fate by hanging out of open doors as the train zips along the tracks to the reassuring clackety clack of wheels upon the wooden slats. It's an exhilarating feeling to, quite literally, hang on for dear life while the wind whips through your hair and the surroundings race by -the mass of thick vegetation dissolving into a speeding blur of green while the train lurches to and fro.

In calmer moments, it's possible to admire the distant scenery which is as beautiful as it varied: rushing streams flow alongside the tracks before disappearing behind a hillside, cascading waterfalls divide craggy mountains, and rolling hills of tea bushes are followed by forests of naked trees. And then suddenly, you're brought back to the immediacy of the present as the train passes through one of many tunnels; replacing sweeping vistas with utter darkness, and compensating for the lack of the visual detail with the aural assault of a roaring train, whose sound is compressed and amplified as it reverberates off the narrow walls of the tunnel.

Riding through the highlands

At other times you'll be hypnotized by the sight of your feet against the distorted haze of green, only to have the ground abruptly disappear as the train fords a yawning chasm, creating the illusion that you're riding the equatorial equivalent of the Polar Express, sailing through the sky on tracks of air.

When people say that it's about the journey, not the destination, you can be sure that they've just come off a train ride in Sri Lanka.

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While I won't go into too much detail, I will say that there is excellent hiking to be had in Sri Lanka's highlands. In Nuwara-Eliya and Ella we hiked to World's End and near Little Adam's Peak respectively, both extremely rewarding and both requiring early starts.

At dusk in World's End. Reminded me of the moors in Scotland, although Sri Lanka is about as far away as one can get

The hike to World's End starts at the ungodly hour of 4am because come 10 o'clock, the commanding view from the peak is completely obscured by cloud cover that comes flowing thick and fast over the surrounding mountains, much like the "Tablecloth" in South Africa's Table Mountain. In the case of Little Adam's Peak, any departure past 8 o'clock virtually guarantees having your brain thoroughly poached by the mid-day sun.

But the early starts are worth it, rewarding one's determination with beautiful sunrises, breathtaking views and stunning landscapes.

Overlooking the highlands of Ella

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By now we're two weeks into our Sri Lanka trip, and before departing for Ella, I bid my parents farewell with a sense of wistful attachment as they call an end to their trip and make their way back to Canada . As constant travel companions for the past three months, we've shared some special experiences. They've been the source of a wide range of emotions: amusement, frustration, annoyance and ire; but have always remained a comforting presence. The goodbye is, as always, brief and unemotional. After they're gone, I'm eager to push on and, with VY, begin to make our way to the beaches that lie along the southern coast.

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Onlookers await the president's inaugural address in Kandy

Unimpressed

Man taking refuge from the afternoon sun under his parasol

Butcher at work

A spot of afternoon tea at a local haunt

The only other place I've seen this besides Africa

Enjoying the train ride

Locals treat train rides like a picnic. I saw a group bust out the crockery for a shared meal

A wonderful view to take in over a cup of coffee in Ella

Tea picker in Ella

Food vendor boards the train selling gateau pimant!

View of Little Adam's Peak

The early morning sun casts gorgeous light on the way to World's End in Nuwara Elia