Given its proximity to India, one would think that a comparatively small country like Sri Lanka would have succumbed to cultural assimilation long ago. But the reality is that, somehow, Sri Lanka has resisted its larger neighbor and managed to preserve its own cultural and religious identity; being predominantly Buddhist and not Hindu as I had assumed. It's a fact that becomes clearer -even to the most inattentive of travelers- as one traverses the country, passing the innumerable temples, stupas and reclining Buddhas that dot the island. The country is even host to the holy "Tooth of Buddha" relic, making it a stop on the Buddhist pilgrim trail -a journey that also includes Lumbini in Nepal and Sarnath in India (close to Varanasi).

Being a fan of ancient civilizations, I was excited to leave Colombo for the cities of Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura and Dambulla; backbone of the once-thriving Sinhalese empire that now serves as the country's cultural triumvirate. With visions of crumbling ruins and extant stone temples on my mind, expectations were high, especially after witnessing the palatial majesty of the Taj Mahal and the heft of Mehrangarh's mighty walls.

The buildings themselves may not be impressive but the details sure are

And yet, when we finally arrived, I couldn't help but feel somewhat underwhelmed by it all. The ruins were, in the truest sense of the word, ruined, amounting in some parts to no more than knee high pillars and naked stone buildings that would challenge even the liveliest of imaginations. While still interesting and undoubtedly significant anthropologically, they lacked the grandeur and awe that I had become accustomed to (and indeed spoiled by) in India and elsewhere (Cambodia's Angkor Wat springs to mind).

No doubt my tepid reception was due in part to our lackadaisical driver/guide, whose descriptions and delivery felt stilted and perfunctory, leaving me disinterested and feeling a victim of "cattle-prod tourism"; flitting from one destination to the next like so many tour bus excursions. Truly, guided tours are not my preferred method of travel. I know this for a fact now. While the convenience is undeniable, it has none of the messiness and potential for chance encounters that are the source of so many great travel stories.

However, I'm not one to dwell on the negative. Visiting the Dambulla cave monasteries were fascinating. Seeing row upon row of Buddha statues in different states of repose was a sight to behold. The low hanging ceilings of the caves -every inch painted with religious iconography- were exquisite in their detail and stunning in their use of color. Why the celebrated D.H. Lawrence once described them as "rat-hole temples, like decked up pigsties" I'll never understand. I'm not one to contradict a giant of English literature but I'll have to respectfully disagree.

Inside the Dambulla caves. Photo courtesy of VY

But far and away the highlight of my visit to central Sri Lanka was Sigiriya, the country's version of Aeyer's Rock. While smaller in scale, the surrounding plains -much like Uluru- lend this enormous stone a haughty and defiant air, inspiring awe and curiosity. Unlike Aeyer's Rock however, a climb to its summit isn't sacrilegious and involves only a moderately challenging scramble up ancient stone steps, rickety gangplanks and iron scaffolding. There's also an amusing walk along Sigiriya's Mirror Wall; a passageway with highly polished plaster on one side (since defaced and mirror-like only in name) and on the other, frescoes of the kingdom's rather well-endowed women.

Titillating

The final ascent to the peak involves an encounter with the Lion Staircase where a pair of Sphinx-like paws are all that remain of a giant sculpted lion that once presided proudly over the kingdom below. Within the presence of these massive paws, it's easy to imagine a fierce lion head whose wild stone mane and giant open maw served as the only entry point to the rock's plateaued summit. And with all of it lit from below by giant bonfires casting dancing shadows across its features... it must have been a sight to sent shivers up the spine.

The final entrance before ascending to the Sigiryia's plateau where the king's palace would have been

Once summited, Sigiriya offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape; and it is here that one realizes just how lush Sri Lanka really is. Vegetation is thick and full, and greenery covers everything like creeping moss. Atop the plateau lie the ruins of the king's palace that still manage to impress despite the palace having been wiped out long ago. There are wonderful terraced gardens, large pools and cisterns that still contain water, vast tracts of grassland that were once used for agriculture, and mazes of stairways that could have inspired MC Escher. The old, large trees provide welcome respite from the equatorial sun while the breezes that blow intermittently at this elevation are cool and pleasant. It all serves as a deserved reward for the sweaty and sometimes nerve-wracking climb.

Panoramic view from atop Sigiryia

A word in recognition of VY's taste for sussing out what would be one of my favorite places to stay during my entire month in Sri Lanka: an out of the way guesthouse located down an unmarked, dirt packed road hidden by a forest of dense foliage. Difficult to find, our driver had to stop several times for directions, inquiring with roadside wayfarers in the comical and lilting tones of Sinhala -a language that sounds like a xylophone struck at random. We arrived to find that we had the entire place to ourselves and spent the remains of the day unwinding in the open air lounge, listening to peacock calls and watching the sun bathe everything in sepia tones. To end the day in this rustic milieu, with a day's exploring under the belt and a nice bottle of scotch in hand makes for an unbeatable combination and was a real highlight of this trip.

What you don't see is the expansive garden out front with wild peacocks running around. I loved it here. Photo courtesy of VY

Next we book our train onward to the city of Kandy and finally get a break from our driver.

The impressive entrance to Sigiriya

Groundskeeper

Walkway up to the lion entrance

Green moss(?) sprouts on everything here

Palace grounds at Sigiriya

Entrance to the Dambulla caves

Shining eyes of the enlightened

Smiling monks