One of the main reasons why people come to Africa is to take a safari into the bush and gawk at the drama of wildlife as it unfolds. For most of us (myself included until my first trip to SA) exposure to these daily dramas are limited to Attenborough-narrated documentaries or to visits to the zoo to watch pallid versions of these amazing animals wander their cages sedately, survival instinct severely blunted by strictly kept feeding schedules.
So it was with great excitement and appreciation that I accepted a very generous offer from my cousin's wife, GW, to join her and her family at the Djuma Game Reserve, a private concession in Kruger Park, Africa's most popular reserve after the Masai Mara in Kenya. GW was visiting family in SA who had rented out a wonderful and spacious lodge outfitted with several rooms, full kitchen, and crucially, a massive fire-pit on which to braai, roast marsh-mellows and watch the "bushman's television" flicker and dance while we ate.
These guys made the trip. EH in the back left and GW with the baseball cap, Aubrey and Williams in front. Oddly, my niece seems to be hiding in this picture. Above: Aubrey behind the wheel of our trusty Land Rover
Our hosts, the knowledgeable EH and his gracious wife LH left no creature comfort unfulfilled; espresso machine for the 6am game drive, fully stocked pantry to please even the pickiest eater, spirits for that mid-safari gin-and-tonic, and of course, the indispensable water carbonator for those times when plain water simply won't do. We were also waited upon by the attentive but never obtrusive staff.
For the next three days the schedule was as follows:
* 6:00 wake-up for a 6:30 game drive
* Return to the lodge at 11:00 to wait out the sun's unforgiving glare (most animals are doing the same)
* Have a late lunch, enthuse over the events of the morning's drive and maybe catch a mid-afternoon nap
* Depart for the evening game drive at 16:30 as predators set out for their nocturnal hunt
* Mid-safari break at sunset over stiff G&Ts expertly prepared by EH's son
* Return by 20:30 for dinner, wine, smores and stories by a crackling fire
What a treat!
One of the perks of a hiring a private game lodge is the assignment of a dedicated tracker, driver and open-air Land Rover. For the length of our stay, Aubrey and Williams served as our guides through Kruger's bush and it was both fascinating and impressive to see them at work. At a glance they could discern how freshly laid the tracks were and moments later we would be off to see a den of lions resting during the early afternoon or a sunbathing leopard lazily whipping its tail. But it wasn't only tracks they used: vultures circling in the distance riding the air vents, warning calls from spotter birds, the movements and cries of baboons; all can be interpreted and used to triangulate on the position of a predator. At night Williams would use a hand-held spotlight as a sort of wildlife detector; the eyes of larger query jumping out of the darkness, refracted by the light. That we almost saw The Big Five twice in one day is a testament to their skill, and the ease with which they tracked our query belies their years of dedication and time spent in the bush. Like all people who are good at what they do, they made it look easy. Oftentimes our CB radio would crackle with the voices of other trackers asking Aubrey for sightings.
Williams in the "tracker's chair." In my opinion, it is simultaneously the best and worst seat in the house depending on how much heat you're packing
On our first day they managed to rout a stalking Leopard who, in pursuit of its prey, ignored our Land Rover as it crossed our path and continued trailing its query into the bush. So close to us was it that I was able to shoot its photograph even with my paltry kit lens. Had we been in a public reserve that would have been the end of our leopard sighting; however, this being private we were able to follow it off-road for another half-hour (severely cramping its style no doubt).
While both consummate trackers, Aubrey and Williams are as taciturn as they are capable, and it was EH's nuanced commentary that brought the safari to life. A seasoned naturalist and accomplished wildlife photographer, EH drew upon his near decade experience as a ranger at SA's Ubizane Reserve to relay the finer points of what we were seeing, the names of the birds we were hearing, the reasons behind the trackers' actions, the history of Kruger, dealing with poachers and all other manner of park administration.
All in all it proved to be a fantastic trip and one heck of an introduction to Kruger Park. So spoiled have I been by this safari experience that a subsequent visit to Chobe National Park in Botswana (another top 10 spot) left me wanting. Even a parade of elephants crossing crocodile infested waters had me stifling a yawn...
Speaking of plurals, here's a few for you:
* Parade/Memory of Elephants
* Parliament of Owls
* Coalition of Cheetahs
* Tower of Giraffes
and my favorites:
* Crash of Rhinos
* Dazzle of Zebras
Next stop: Mozambique!
Here are a few pictures I snapped while in Djuma. I tried my best with the 18-105mm kit lens I had and only got these frame filling shots because Aubrey was so clutch behind the wheel. Enjoy!
Aubrey why you so clutch on the clutch?
This is the guy whose stalking we ruined with our stalking
You can't tell but this elephant was enormous. It pushed down a tree like it was a bunch of Janga blocks
I like the little parasite eater perched on the back of this rhino's neck
I know that feel bro
Experiencing the world and loving every second of it.
